From its iconic landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and being the most visited country in the world, France is famous for so many reasons. When diving deeper into French culture, somewhere hidden along the coastline that many people don’t associate France with is surfing. In today’s world, towns such as Biarritz or Hossegor are regarded as some of the best surfing destinations in Europe. What began in California slowly drifted into the French waters and is now one of its most popular sports.
The surfing culture in the country goes beyond riding waves. It influences tourism, films, music and shapes the identities of many communities. From the different beaches scattered around France to the success of many French professional surfers, surfing has become a staple of modern French culture. Knowing how this culture transformed from the very beginning unveils an enchanting story that many people outside of France would never learn about.
France’s surfing culture was profoundly influenced by the people living along the borders of France and Spain, the Basque Country. Their people are one of Europe’s oldest ethnic groups, speaking a language called Euskara that has no relation whatsoever to French, Spanish, or to any other European language. Historically, the Basque people depended on fishing and whaling in the Atlantic Ocean long before surfing arrived. Whaling was very popular in the Basque Country because they were one of the first European groups to start hunting whales back in as early as the 16th century. This connection created a meaningful culture between the ocean and the people which allowed surfing to be naturally embraced in Biarritz during the 1950’s. The Basque Country had such a significant impact on French surf culture that now towns in France such as Saint-Jean-de-Luz blend Basque traditions, food, and music with surfing traditions. This uniqueness makes it so special to surf in France since this type of culture is found nowhere else around the world.
The sport of surfing would not arrive in France until the 1950s. American screenwriter Peter Viertel introduced the sport in 1956 while working in the country. He was working on the film adaptation of Ernest Hemingway’s ‘The Sun Also Rises’ when he travelled to Biarritz and observed the waves along the Basque coast. He thought that these waves were ideal for surfing and was surprised no one was out catching waves. He decided to ship a board all the way from California. After some time, the board arrived and he began to paddle out into the waves. While he was out in the ocean, he caught the eye of many locals as they observed him do something that they had never seen before. Many people in the area soon wanted to try as well since they were intrigued by it. Jacky Rott and Jo Moraïtz were the first known competitive French surfers and helped popularize the sport in their country. What started as an American screenwriter surfing grew into a rapidly expanding sport that transformed Biarritz into the birthplace of surfing in France and even in Europe. This growth turned surfing into one of the country’s modern cultural traditions.
Going up north from Biarritz, Hossegor is found and it is renowned for having one of the most powerful beachbreaks in Europe. Many surfers consider Hossegor the surfing capital of France despite Biarritz for being known as the birthplace because the waves there are so impressive. The waves in Hossegor are often compared to the best waves in the world like in Hawaii and Australia. The waves are nicknamed “the European Pipeline” because they resemble the most famous wave in the world found on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. The World Surf League hosts competitions for the best surfers on the planet in this town. These competitions are held every fall where thousands of spectators come to watch. By hosting one of the most prestigious competitions in the surfing world, Hossegor has now helped cement France as one of the world’s leading surfing nations.
Surfing became so popular in France that it expanded past the beaches and went mainstream. For example, the comedy film ‘Brice de Nice’ made in 2005, stars French actor Jean Dujardin. This movie follows main character Brice, a so-called surfer from the city of Nice. He waits his whole life trying to find the perfect wave in spite of living on a coast line that is not actually known for surfing or even having waves. The film became a massive success throughout France attracting millions of viewers and the main character became so popular that even people who didn’t surf recognised him. This success demonstrated how surfing had become ingrained in French culture. The sport had become so well-known that it influenced the creation of one of France’s most recognizable films.
The growth continued even further with many professional surfers from France that represent their country in competitions. Jeremy Flores was the first French surfer to win a WSL (World Surf League) Championship Tour event. He came away with the victory in 2010 at the Billabong Pipe Masters in Hawaii, making history for his nation. He went off to have an amazing career, winning 3 more events, including one in France. Johanne Defay is the most successful female surfer from France, winning a total of 6 events and consistently finishing in the top 10 rankings every single year since she qualified to the WSL Championship Tour. The success in French surfing increased the popularity of the sport throughout the country and transformed France into a nation with many competitors succeeding at the highest level yet.
The growing success paved the way for its greatest achievement. During the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, the event for surfing was held in Teahupo’o, Tahiti. The competition took place at one of the most dangerous waves in the world, located in the central South Pacific Ocean, French Polynesia. French surfer Kauli Vaast outperformed everyone in the event and won the Olympic gold medal. This was a historic moment for French surfing as it remains one of the greatest achievements in the sport’s history. It demonstrated how far the sport had developed since the introduction to the country in 1956. What started with Peter Viertel riding those waves in Biarritz turned into a French athlete standing at the top of the Olympic podium. This gold medal symbolizes how far the French surf culture has grown after spending decades expanding along the coastlines of France. Kauli Vaast’s achievement captivated a myriad of surfers who now dream of following in his footsteps.
It is clear to see that the influence of surfing on France completely transformed towns like Hossegor. These areas are now globally recognised destinations that attract many foreign surfers and tourists from all around the world. Thousands of visitors each year travel to these coastal areas to experience the local surf culture. Many surf-related businesses started opening up because of the popularity of the sport such as surf schools, surf shops, and other local businesses. The rise in different surf-related businesses created many job opportunities for the communities living in these areas. The sport has become embedded in the identity of these communities, transforming their traditions and lifestyle. In these towns, surfing is viewed as a way of life and is embraced by people of all ages.
The surfing culture has also inspired a strong movement towards environmental protection. Surfers want to protect their oceans and beaches because it is in those areas that they surf. This has made surfers passionate advocates for protecting the environment. Surfrider Foundation Europe, established in France in 1990, is one of the most powerful organizations supporting this cause. They aim to protect oceans, beaches, rivers, lakes, and coastlines through environmental campaigns, research, and educational programs. Volunteers participate in beach cleanups every year around France. This commitment to protecting the ocean shows that surfing is more than just a sport or activity. It represents a responsibility to take care of the environment that makes the sport possible. The relationship between the two has become a very important part of the French surf culture and will continue to impact the following generations.
From the fishing and whaling traditions in the Basque Country to France winning an Olympic gold medal, surfing in France has remarkably been transformed. What began as an American screenwriter shipping a surfboard and riding the waves in 1956 has evolved into a culture that produces some of the best surf athletes in the world and a unique culture that has spread throughout the country. The rise of the sport in the country has influenced films like Brice De Nice and even inspired efforts to protect the environment. The achievements of surfers like Jeremy Flores, Johanne Defay, and Kauli Vaast are a great example of how the sport has progressed since the start of it all. Surfing in the country represents more than just riding a wave. It symbolises France’s connection to the ocean and how it has shaped many identities and traditions that will continue to inspire future generations.
By: Julien Marc Spaccarotella
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